The medieval city of Alba, just an hour on the autostrada from Torino, is the capital of one of the gastronomic areas of Italy, the Langhe. The Langhe is a hilly area to the south and east of the river Tanaro in the province of Cuneo in Piedmont, northern Italy. The fertile soil of Piedmont provides perfect wine-producing condition: this was already evident during the Roman Empire, when Pliny the Elder mentioned this region as being one of the most favourable for growing vines in ancient Italy. The vineyards of the Langhe, together with those of the Roero and Monferrato zones, are considered not only an outstanding example of man’s interaction with his natural environment, but also an archetype of European vineyards because of its aesthetic qualities. For this reason, on 22 June 2014, the Langhe were inscribed on UNESCO World Heritage list. The centre of the Langhe, the city of Alba, is well known for its great wines (such as Barolo, Barbanesco, Moscato and Nebbiolo), its prestigious white truffles, its chocolates, hazelnuts and artisanal cheeses. If you are into wines and authentic foods, you will find Alba and the Langhe a heaven on heart!
Called the “city of one hundred towers”, Alba has a long history: Roman remains emerge under the medieval historic centre featuring small shops, pastries and wine bars selling (at very convenient prices) the truly special local wines. You can start your trip here, walking among the picturesque towers and fortresses and then arriving to the great churches of Alba, the Duomo and the church of San Domenico, one of the most beautiful Romanesque- Gothic Northern Italy. If you are peckish, go to the Bar Pasticceria Pettiti (Via Vittorio Emanuele 25), an historical café with spectacular classic furnishings. The coffee and the cappuccino are excellent, as well as the pastries (thanks not only to the skill of pastry makers, but also to the exceptional raw material). After being refreshed properly, you will be ready for your trip in the Langhe!
In the Langhe you cannot get bored, just take your car (or, if you prefer, your trekking shoes) and dive in the astonishing nature along the different paths: the Langhe roads seem to be designed to excite and at every corner you will find postcard views ready to be photographed.
Barolo: agri-rock festival and the wine museum
Barolo is a small village, 20 minutes far from Alba, famous for its namesake wine. Every summer, it hosts Collisioni festival, a cultural event based on the mixture of international music, world literature and eno-gastronomy culture. For three days, this small village on the top of the rolling hills is turned into an open air non-stop stage where the audience attend lectures, readings and concerts. If you are planning to visit the Langhe in July, we recommend that you do not miss the show: what’s better than a good glass of wine accompanied by talks and concerts of amazing artists like Bob Dylan, Patti Smith, Jamiroquai, Deep Purple and José Saramago? If you want to know more, here you will find more info.
Even for the rest of the year, Barolo remains one of the top destination in the Langhe. The village is dominated by a giant castle that today is the home of Barolo wine museum, set up by François Confino. The museum was designed to be an interactive voyage through culture and wine traditions. The visit is structured as a descending path that winds through light and dark, sound and video: visitors are asked to activate particular mechanisms that allow the installations to tell the story of wine. Given the interacting design, the museum is ideal also for children. Tickets cost 8€ for adults (3€ for children from 6 to 14 years old). Opening hours: from 10.30am to 7pm; last admission: 6pm. More information here .
Pollenzo: the University of Gastronomic Sciences and the Wine Bank
20 minutes far from Barolo, you will find the small village of Pollenzo. In the past, the castle of Pollenzo (from 1998 one of the UNESCO World Heritage sites) has been one of the numerous Savoy residences. The old building was developed in the 14th century and has become famous for its Neo-Gothic style as well as for the elegant tower guarding a spacious square with monumental fountain in the middle. Today, it is home to one of the most important wine and food centres in Europe: the University of Gastronomic Sciences. Founded in 2004 by the international non-profit association Slow Food in collaboration with the regions of Piedmont and Emilia-Romagna, the University’s goal is to offer an international research and education centre for all those working on renewing farming methods, protecting biodiversity, and building an organic relationship between gastronomy and agricultural science.
Another interesting initiative here in Pollenzo is la Banca del Vino (the Wine Bank): in the historic cellars that witnessed the first codification of the modern methods of winemaking of the great Piedmontese wines, on a surface of 2500 square meters, you will find a selection of the most prestigious national labels. The Wine Bank can be visited by single visitors: the path will guide you in the cellar offering information and charts about the history of the Italian wines and the project of the Wine Bank. As for the museum of wine, admission is not free: however, the interesting part is that here you can decide to be engaged in a wine tasting from1 glass to a maximum of 5 glasses. The experience is perfect for all the wine lovers, as the wines proposed (rarities included) are from more than 300 wine-makers from all Italy. A self-guided tour costs just 3,00 €>/b>, the tour with 1 tasting 8,00€, the tour with 5 tasting 20,00€. For more info, this is the website.
Where to have lunch?
Located 5 minutes from Pollenzo, the Osteria Boccadivino (Via Mendicita’ Istruita 14, Bra) is where the Slow Food movement was conceived, about 27 years ago. The restaurant is on the first floor and has three rooms. With the beautiful season, the yard and lawn become a cool and pleasant dehors. There you can enjoy the variety and quality of the ingredients coming from Slow Food network, the explanation of the dishes and the extensive wine and liqueur list. One dish of hand-made pasta costs 10€, main dishes around 13€, a good menu degustazione costs 30€.
If you are in Barolo and want to have lunch, take the car and go to the Osteria More e Macine (Via XX settembre 18, La Morra), a simple, high quality restaurant in the centre of La Morra. The place is unusual: here you can order an exquisite meal made with white truffle as well as a glass of barbera and a sandwich. Two rooms (one very big, both very nice) and one wonderful terrace. Moreover, it is very close to the Municipal Winery, where you can buy your favourite label after the meal. Traditional pasta from 8€, main dishes around 12€, desserts with an unmissable glass of Barolo chinato 7.50€. If you do not have problem with your budget, ask for something with truffle flakes!
Where to have dinner?
Located 15 minutes by car from Barolo, surrounded by vineyards and castles, the Trattoria nelle Vigne (Via Moglia Gerlotto, 7a, Diano d’Alba) offers wonderful traditional dishes and a breath-taking view over the surrounding hills through window walls. A full menu of 5 starters, 2 first courses and 2 mains with vegetables, and one dessert costs just 28.50€ per person (a reduced menu is available at 25€). The food is abundant and of high quality, cooked capably. The staff is polite and attentive to all those who have food intolerance. Positive note: all starters are gluten free.
Transportations
The best way to visit le Langhe is to travel by car. From Turin, you can reach Alba in just an hour by taking the A6 motorway. Leave the motorway at the Bra Exit and then follow the signals to Alba. The best time to arrive in Alba is on a Saturday morning because the whole town is converted into an enormous street market. If you want to skip Alba, from Bra you can easily reach Pollenzo. Pollenzo and Barolo are connected through the Strada Provinciale 7/SP7, they are just 20 minutes far by car.
If you prefer to travel by train, you can take a train from Turin to Bra (1 hour, 1 change, around 5€), and then a bus to Pollenzo (you can find more info here). Otherwise, you can take a train from Turin to Alba (1.20 hour, 1 change, around 5€). There, you can rent a bike to reach Barolo (the path is 14 km long). More info at this website. Unfortunately, the travel from Alba to Bra or vice versa is not secured by any company.
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