Two days in Perugia

Perugia, wonderful town in Umbria region, is a medieval city famous for its winding staircases, its beautiful medieval gates and its famous decorated arches. Going into Perugia means forgetting about modernity and the last few centuries: today’s travelers will have the same experience as their predecessors had almost 150 years ago, in the nineteenth century. From the historic centre enriched by Etruscan, Roman and Gothic reminiscences, to the chocolate events that might be of interest to the most greedy, to the amazing Umbria Jazz festival, Perugia is one of the small Italian treasure that should not be forgotten. Let’s start our trip! Attractions

The Rocca Paolina Fortress

Our holiday starts from one of the most famous symbol of Perugia. Half a century ago, during the pontificate of Pope Paul III, Perugia, the last free city in Italy, was finally defeated in a war known as the Salt War. To remark the papal dominion, Pope Paul III commissioned the construction of an imposing fortress, that has become famous by the name of Rocca Paolina. From the outside, the only noticeable parts of the Rocca are the walls in Viale Indipendenza and the bastion along Via Marzia, which incorporates the beautiful Etruscan Porta Marzia. From the Porta, it is possible to access the foundations of the fortress. The interior of the Rocca is made of medieval streets and squares, and many connections between the fortress and the rest of the city are available through some escalators built inside the fortress. Inside the Rocca, you should not miss the hall of the papal guards. Never empty, the fortress is still considered an essential part of the city: a vibrant place for citizens and tourists. To visit it you do not have to pay the ticket, the access through Porta Marzia is open from 7 am to 8 pm, the other escalators are open from 6.15 am to 2 am.

Fontana Maggiore

Built from 1278 to celebrate the autonomy of the free commune of Perugia, this fountain is still one of the most prestigious symbol of the city, created by famous artists such as Nicola Pisano, Giovanni Pisano and Boninsegna. The twenty-five sides of the basin are adorned with sculptures representing prophets and saints, the labours of the months, the symbols of the zodiac, images from Genesis, and famous facts from Roman history.

Acquedotto

The construction of the aqueduct, about 4 km long, started in 1254 under the guide of Bevignate and Boninsegna, and was completed in 1280. Without the help of pumps or other instruments, Bevignate and Boninsegna managed to impart to water the reverse motion only with the use of pressure: an extraordinary hydraulic endeavour! During the first half of the nineteenth century, once the aqueduct ceased its function, its last part was transformed into a pathway connecting the village of Porta S. Angelo to the Old Town. This pathway consists of a wondeful bridge supported by a dozen rounds with full arches, to which the parapet has been added.

Palazzo dei Priori

The Palazzo dei Priori is home to the Commune of Perugia, the National Gallery of Umbria and the two largest medieval corporations: the Nobile Collegio della Mercanzia and the Noble College of the Cambio. The National Gallery preserves one of the richest art collections in Italy from the 13th to the 19th century, with works by Duccio di Boninsegna, Benedetto Bonfigli, Bartolomeo Caporali, Gentile da Fabriano, Beato Angelico, Benozzo Gozzoli, Piero della Francesca, Pinturicchio, Perugino, Orazio Gentileschi, Pietro da Cortona, Gian Lorenzo Bernini and others. The Gallery is open from March to September Tuesday-Sunday 8.30am-7.30pm. Tickets are free for under 18, cost 3,25€ for young between 18 and 25 years old, 6.50€ for over 25.

Chiesa San Michele Arcangelo

Also called “Il Tempietto” (the little temple), and famous for its characteristic circular shape, the Church rises in the homonymous Borgo Sant’Angelo, on the hill near the road leading to the Franciscan monastery of Monteripido, in the north of Perugia. The devotion to the warrior angel is not a coincidence, as this is often used in churches close to the city walls. Apart from this interpretation, another legend makes this Church particularly interesting: it would be one of the places of worship built along the so-called Linea di San Michele (layline). This line is the set of points along the Earth’s surface where the last ray of sunshine passes at sunset in the summer solstice. Even though its construction dates back several centuries before the Templar era, the Church has affinities and clues that recall the Templar Knights and their rich and complex symbolism. First, its significant circular form will become typical of the Templar constructions, a shape that recalls the plan of ancient Jerusalem and symbolizes Heaven. Furthermore, most of the points appear on the patented crosses: a couple are on the doorposts of the front door, while another one is painted on the neck of the Lady in an interior fresco. Food and drink

Smart places for lunch

Many restaurants and osterie in Perugia might well catch your eye. As many other cities in Toscana and Umbria, this city has such a good selection of wine and local food that it is so easy to find a perfect place to eat! For lunch, our suggestion is that you try Vivace (Corso Vannucci, 48). Here you come to drink a glass of wine and tease your appetite with a board of local cheeses and Umbrian salami (10€). You will find also an aperitivo menu (8€), gourmet panini (8/10€), soups and salads (6€). It is possible to eat inside, or if you prefer to enjoy the beautiful view over Corso Vannucci, you can sit under the large umbrellas outdoors. Remember: here it is also possible to buy food and wine products! If you are looking for a cheap lunch, you could also consider the Dal mi Cocco Restaurant (Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi 12). This is a historic place in Perugia that offers a fixed menu (antipasto, two dishes of handmade pasta, one main dish, handmade bread and dessert), but different every day: it is not possible to choose among a huge selection, but it really does not matter. What the chef “imposes” is always sufficient to satisfy everyone who wants to taste typical Umbrian food and to fill the most stunning stomachs. Good quality, nice atmosphere and very convenient price: the fixed menu costs just 13€!

Best dinners in Perugia

Are you looking for a good Italian pizza? La Romantica pizzeria (Borgo XX Giugno, 9) is the place for you. Very good selection of pizzas and frittini (olive all’ascolana, mozzarella in carrozza, verdure in pastella to give some examples). The Pizzeria is inside the historical centre, but prices are very good: one pizza and a glass of wine cost around 10€. Our tip: it is better to book a table, especially during the weekend it is often crowded. If you are looking for something more traditional, then why not try the Osteria A Priori (Via dei Priori, 39)? If you love wine, this place is for you! Just take a look at the wine list, made only of regional labels, and at the list of artisan beers. This place is also perfect if you love Umbrian food: in addition to a typical product shop, it offers a very good menu at dinner. Prices around 15€. Open for lunch and dinner, closed on Tuesdays.

Accomodation

Less than a 10-minute walk from Perugia Train Station, you can find the Affittacamere Renata & Massimo, offering nice parquet floors rooms with simple furnishing, refrigerator and free wifi. The bathroom and the kitchen are shared, but always very clean. Given that it is close to the station, the Affittacamere is perfect if you arrive by train, but we want to mention that the parking is free. Prices from 45€ per room. Another good solution with free parking is Petite Maison di Anna , a very nice apartment with a dining area and a kitchen equipped with oven. The apartment is just 30 minutes far from the centre of Siena, and it is very close to the train station. Free parking, free wifi and private entrance. If you are traveling with your pet, no problem: the apartment is pet-friendly! Double rooms from 50€. Transportation

The closest destination is Perugia Airport. The connection between the Airport of Perugia and the the centre of Perugia is secured by the bus company ACAP – SULGA. One way tickets cost 8€ (5€ for under 12), return tickets 14€. More information can be found here . A taxi from the airport to the historic centre will cost around 30€ (for more information look at the website).

Once in Perugia, if you want to take a bus, you can buy a ticket in one of the tabaccherie of the city: one ticket (lasting 1 hour and 10 minutes) costs 1.50€ (if bought on the bus, 2€), while one-day tickets cost 5.40€.